In this Hair Light 101 tutorial, I break down proper hair light placement, power ratios, and modifier tests for portrait photography.
You’ll see controlled comparisons of three common lighting modifiers used as hair lights:
• 7” reflector (hard, specular rim light)
• 49” white umbrella (broad back light with potential spill)
• 1×3 ft strip softbox (controlled, even highlight)
For each modifier, I meter the hair light in one-stop increments from f/2.8 through f/11 while keeping the main light locked at f/8. This allows you to clearly see how power changes affect separation, texture, and balance within a portrait lighting setup.
You’ll learn:
• Where to place a hair light (distance, height, and angle)
• How bright it should be relative to your key light
• Exposure guidelines for black, brown, and blonde hair
• When a hard rim light works — and when it clashes
• How to control spill onto the face or background
• When to use grids for tighter control
Whether you’re shooting headshots, fashion portraits, or studio portrait photography, understanding hair light placement and modifier choice will help you create clean, professional lighting with depth and separation.
📥 Download my Lighting Handbooks:
📸 Full list of studio gear:
💡 Join the Academy with John Gress:
Models Instagram:
⚙️ Gear Used in This Video
Camera Stand
Studio Titan Camera Stand STA-01-360 MK2
B&H
Booms & Mounting Options:
Studio Titan Rack & Pinion Geared Crank Stand STA-06-200
B&H
Kupo Big Boom
Amazon
B&H
Kupo 40″ Master C-Stand Kit with Turtle Base Kit
Amazon
B&H
Kupo Baby Boom, Extends from 3.8-7.8′, Steel
Amazon
B&H
STUDIO TITAN AMERICA Double Beam Boom Arm (10.2’)
B&H
Light Meter:
Sekonic L-858D-U SPEEDMASTER Light Meter Kit with RT-EL/PX Transmitter Module for Elinchrom
B&H
Sekonic L-858D-U (401-858) Meter Plus RT-GX for Godox
Amazon
Elinchrom Lighting:
Elinchrom FIVE
Amazon
B&H
Elinchrom Indirect Litemotiv Octa Softbox 190cm (75”)
Amazon
B&H
Elinchrom Rotalux Stripbox 35x100cm
Amazon
B&H
Elinchrom Deep Umbrella (White, 49″)
Amazon
B&H
Elinchrom 8.3″ Standard Reflector with 30 Degree Grid
B&H
Fill:
V-FLAT WORLD Foldable V-Flat 2.0, Black/White, 2-Pack
Amazon
B&H
V-Flat World
📚
Chapters
00:00 – Introduction
00:37 – Why you should use a hairlight
01:11 – Placement
01:27 – Mounting – Grip
02:00 – How bright should your hair light be?
03:55 – 7” REFLECTOR – THE HARD LIGHT LOOK
05:51 – 7” reflector hairlight + Octabox main light
06:31 – 125cm / 49” White Umbrella
08:27 – Strip Softbox Tests
10:15 – Placement Tip
10:47 – Final Image and Thoughts
Hashtags:
#HairLight
#PortraitLighting
#StudioPhotography
#LightingTutorial
#PhotographyTips
Comments
16 responses to “Hair Light 101 – Placement, Power & Modifier Tests for Portrait Photography”
Did you create that recessed fabric lip, or was it an accessory sold by Elinchrom?
Wonderful video, greatly appreciated the information. I've been trying to work with a hair light and this is giving me some great information. I have a one by three. I will now experiment with placement, etc. Again, thank you. I look forward to more videos and checking out your course, as by 2026 goal is to learn more about lighting.
Great video! Very useful even for experienced photographers. Thanks a lot John.
Great video. Your work is incredible. Just to confirm, when you show the F stops for the light, your camera is still locked in to F8, correct?
Great content John! Thank you from Germany.
great run through and practical tips thanks John
Great video!!
Thank you so much John, as always very helpful and informative, learnt a lot, and the tips are wonderful! Thank you so much for taking the time to teach step by step in details! Best of luck!
Informative video. What do you suggest for thick matte hair that's black like with Indians? I often seem to end up with not enough texture coming through.
Great explanations and examples as always!
Honestly, when I have the chance and time to set up a hair light, my go to is a C stand with a boom arm and a godox ad100 with a mag sphere and grid from magmod it’s seriously the simplest way to get the result that I’m looking for without having to take up more room
Great photographer and great teacher! Thanks John!
Thanks for sharing.
I've never been a fan of hair and rim lights, but I am a fan of this video ☺
Thanks for this! 😁 I am familiar with the concept, but to learn that the stops used change with the color of hair was new for me. Any advice for bald men like me ? 😅
Is your talking-to-camera shot also f8? Because I see blurred bg and it made me wonder if you shot at 200mm+ ? (I am not criticizing, it's totally ok if that shot was not at f8, the way you said it made me just wonder.)