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Chapters
00:00 Intro
00:37 I made a Demo so you can follow along!
00:58 High ISO Explained
01:45 My ISO Recommendations for Different Sensors
02:04 The Camera I’m Using at ISO 3200 vs 102400
02:35 3 Ways We Can Reduce the ISO & Noise!
02:54 Aperture: The 1st Setting I’d Change!
03:39 Why Prime Lenses Are THE BEST for Low Light!
04:20 Shutter: The 2nd Setting I’d Change!
04:29 The Shutter Speed Rule for Handheld Low Light Photography
04:45 The Full Handheld Low Light Demo
05:40 The Result
06:07 3 Steps I Take – A Recap
06:51 Outdoor Low Light Demo
07:26 DIFFERENT Step-By-Step Demo with a Tripod
07:54 The Result with a Tripod!
08:39 Long Exposure Explained
09:22 The HARSH Truth & Bonus Tips!
10:14 Lights Out time & goodbye!
The hardest part of photography for most beginners is mastering the ability to take amazing low light photos, especially in the dark or at night! But don’t worry, Jason Vong will guide you through the process with step-by-step visual instructions on how to capture great low light photos, even with the most basic camera paired with a kit lens. Jason will carefully explain what are the best ISO, Aperture, & Shutter Speed settings to use and in what order so you will be the master of night photography anywhere in the world!
Comments
44 responses to “Low Light Photos were HARD Until I Learned This!”
👋Enjoyed this video? Check out more of my photography basics!
📕Mastering Shutter Speed – A Guide to Capturing Movements: https://youtu.be/ndLxzHyb228
📕Mastering Aperture – More than Just "Blurry Backgrounds": https://youtu.be/1LWI7VyBW80
📕Take SUPER SHARP Photos with ANY CAMERAS: https://youtu.be/q3PBSPMJUYw
Hi Jayson, im a owner of the Nikon d7000 with the lens 18-105mm what extra lens should be good for me ? 17-55mm?
Low-light photography! Superb!
Wow! Everything just clicks for me after watching this. I really appreciate you making this.
I thought you'd show a set mode inside the camera to help … fock*
I have an issue taking photos of my daughters dance team as I need to stop the motion blur… but limit the noise.
5.15 nice acting.
Misleading, at least.
Hi Jason. I have a question. You mention Max ISO for full frame 6400 and Crop at 3200 (assuming because 1.5 factor) Following this logic, since the crop factor on Sony Rx 100 is 2.7 should I set my max ISO at 800 instead? (sorry, math geek) Thanks 📷😉👍
5:26 You could have edited that out, but you didn't. I appreciate that. Thank you for the great content as usual.
This guy also sells you a ground on the moon.
I shoot mostly videos . I am currently filming with the a7siii. Everyone says the best shutter speed for low light is 1/50 but why not shoot as low a 1/30 of a second?
Just a few days ago I got some good shots with my full frame D850 at 18000 ISO. So, you can push it with modern cameras. The ones with lower megapixel count could probably do even better, I hear A7S III is some kind of a nocturnal being. Add a little Lightroom noise reduction, and you're solid. With how good modern sensors and readout circuits are, how good AI noise reduction is, I've pretty much stopped caring about ISO. I was like "Oh no, it's past 6400, gotta lower that shutter speed to get a blurry but less noisy image", today I'm just clicking. Camera shake, motion blur I can't fix. Noise isn't a problem.
"Shutter speed matches focal length" should be used thoughtfully. It depends on sensor resolution, and if the camera or the lens has IBIS. Using 1/100 on 85mm prime with no IBIS on high resolution sensor will result in lots most of the shots being blurry. Also for slower shutter speed steady grip is very important. The way you held the camera on 5:46 wouldn't work with that shutter speed without stabilization.
Hi didnt quite understand, i need to match my FL to shutter? Example FL 50 so shutter is on 1/50? Correct? Sorry, noobie here , hehe
Nice video for beginners not familiar with manual mode but I do it a bit differently, and nighttime street photography is kind of my specialty.
First, I usually set shutter speed first — usually this is my main constraint. E.g. night time portraits are probably 1/60 thru 1/125 or even 1/250 depending on the pose/action of the subject. 1/f for handheld, although I'll often try to push it longer and use gratuitous burst mode hoping one of them will end up sharp. Also you can usually push longer than 1/f if you use camera bracing or use your strap to help stabilize the camera. Slow shutter speeds if I want light trails or "movement".
I'll use aperture still to primarily control depth of field, not light, although I'll try to get away with the shallowest depth of field I can. I set this after shutter speed because that lets me know how much room I have to play with.
I don't try hard to get low ISO's. Over ISO 800 is more of the rule than ISO under 800. ISO's into the thousands is common, and sometimes over 10,000.
Handling noise in post is a huge part of the equation. I only use AI denoise lightly as it can look bad fast, mostly I lean on "conventional" denoise. Also don't worry about noise at 100% zoom — downsample your image to expected use resolutions and judge noise there. Print some draft prints if you're intending to print and look at how the noise is turning out there. Also embrace the noise — with the right editing it can help lend to a filmic look. Noise is also a lot more tolerable in B&W, for both technical and aesthetic reasons.
Finally, embrace darkness. You're photographing night scenes after all — let it create the atmosphere. Even if 3/5 of your photo ends up black, let it. The contrast will often create a more powerful photo at the end of the day.
Nice meeting you in Shibuya today.
Thank you very much for the knowledge that has been given through this video, I will try it for street photos at night in Jakarta💯
auto iso on fuji system is fine tho. you can set a max iso.
The problem is if you have moving objects in low light. That's the only reason I think about switching from APS-C to Fullframe and better lenses.
Do you have any tips for concert photography ? Because with the band I'm photographing, their fingers and movements are blurry if I go lower than 1/250. And even with that Shutter Speed, I still have blurry fingers sometimes. I have a Canon R8 with a Canon RF 35mm, 1,8. I usually shoot their concerts at 1,8 or max 4 if I want everyine in focus. Which leads me to raise my ISO. So my pictures are obiously full of noises.
Having all the depths of my subject is also hard sometimes for me. I'm learning !
Thank you and sorry for my grammar. I'm not a native english speaker. 🙂
Love your videos, btw !
mannnnn… your vid help me a lot as beginner.. 🙏🏻 thnks man .. auto subscribe ❤
Super helpful thank you !!
Great video for beginners.
I just wanna share sth. I am not a profession. I am a hobbyist, and I mostly do wildlife, and in the forest it is mostly dark. This might work for some of you guys too, I have 2 cameras, Fujifilm X-T30 II (no IBIS), and Nikon Zf (8 stops of IBIS). But with the Fuji, I have a very narrow aperture telephoto lens, 50-230mm f4.5-6.7 (3.5 stops of OIS), and since I'm gonna have to do some level of cropping in post, for clicking birds sitting still in branches or some wild animals chilling, I try to set the aperture to the widest possible at the focal length, and I never let the ISO exceed 400 and sometimes I let the shutter speed up to 1/15 or 1/20 of a second (with the mechanical shutter), and handheld. But the secret is that I shoot burst, so that I can have like 20-40 percent of tack sharp photos. And I get like 50-60 percent hit rate at 1/30. I am still saving some money to buy a telephoto lens for the Nikon too.
Nice Job Thanks
vid def helped me with lighting my shutter speed was always too high
Man… what a great video! Thank you so much… but… ehh… i thinl i saw a little noise in your mustache area…😂 thank you again for your chanel… helps a lot!🤘
I just discovered your channel, I've been consuming material about photography for a year and until now I hadn't found anything as good as your channel, I'm from Brazil and maybe that's why I didn't discover you before, I'm sure that I'll improve my photography a lot by watching your videos, congratulations!
yo jason, u just got 1 subscriber. nice tips and information.
One trick I do with handheld shooting is to exhale as I press the shutter button. I learned this trick back when I didn't have gear with image stabilization. While this might not work for everyone, this exhale trick in addition the image stabilization tech seem to work well for me.
What about mix lighting situations, like bright outdoor with heavy shadows? I protected the highlights (fluffy clouds) but my shadows (back of trees/rocks) are too dark to recover. How do I know if I can recover my shadows with min noise?
Why dont you teach someone this. because it looks like you were teaching in full manual… If anyone tells you to shoot full manual they're a try hard. You can use apature priority and shutter priority and just adjust the exposure comp rather then having to take 4 months so setup each shot. most of the time you wont have the luxury of being able to constantly adjust settings. so why use manual. Its like why would I build a car when I can buy one for cheap than what it would cost to build it.
Nice vibes in this video! Great info. Thanks for sharing
I'm an a7siii user . So I should have no problem.
Hi, what tripod head are you using in this video?
This really helps me. Thank you!
5:30 Trial and ERRORA?
He has a flair for the obvious
Jason, I would love to see a video of you testing out the ace pro .
Great video, Jason
TLDR use a tripod. fucking ell 10mins of waffle.
Never mind the photo. How did you shoot a video in these conditions with deep black and no noise?!
Useles af. If it's lowlight than u r joe biden
Ok
This is a great video! Thank you !!! I am straggling to decide what to be the very versatile lens for my S9 camera for photo. I have S5iiX for video used with Sigma 28-105 DG DN Art. I also have PANASONIC s 50 F1.8 , AND THE KIT LENSS 20-60 F3.5-5.6. Now I am looking to have the main lens for my S9 used for photo. I mention that I do video and photo in a church where I like to shut in front or in any angle any nice situation of anything (children, etc) I would like Sigma 16-300 at f2.8 but it s for APS-C, or Tamron 28-200 f2.8 but it s not for Lumix L mount and with adaptor from E mount it s not guaranteed that it ll work .I am really confused . Any advice is more then welcome !
I think in this time the world should pass the trilogy lenses .
Thank you so much !